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Hadrian’s Wall – on the edge of Empire March 19, 2009

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Hadrian's Wall - looking west

Hadrian's Wall - looking west

Hadrian’s Wall has been many things in its long life – linear fortress, border marker, provincial boundary, casual quarry, battleground, ancient monument, tourist destination and the setting for many tales (Rosemary Sutcliffe’s ‘Eagle of the Ninth’, and Rudyard Kipling’s ‘On the Wall’ spring to mind). It runs from the Roman fort of Segedunum (Wallsend) to Bowness on the Solway Firth, and is just over 73 miles long.

Brought into being by decree of the Emperor Hadrian, during his tour of Britain in 120AD, the main purpose of the wall was to prevent the northern areas of the Roman province of Britannia being over-run by Pictish tribes from the north, and also spasmodic sea-borne attacks by Danish and Norse raiding parties, who went ‘a-viking’ when the spring brought better sea conditions for their longboats. The best known of the three wall-like fortifications built across the province of Britannia, Hadrian’s Wall had (for the most part) a rubble core and faced stone blocks to a height of some 12 feet, in places. The more northern Antonine Wall, (built c. 142AD) at the shortest distance between the east and west coasts, was a constructed of mostly earth and timber. It is a little known fact that each Roman Legion carried its own engineers, and these were quite capable of undertaking major building works, such as Hadrian’s Wall, using local stone; three Legions undertook to build the wall, and traces of their handiwork can be identified to this day. When completed, the wall stretched from the North Sea (Oceanus Germanicus) to the Irish Sea.  It was fortified each Roman mile, with so-called ‘mile castles’, strong watchtowers, which could hold a detachment of fighting men, and siege engines, including ballistas, capable of firing heavy dart-like spears at any attacking force. There was a deep ditch immediately in front of the Wall, which was strewn with thorn bushes and jagged rocks to make any approach from the northern side difficult.  There were also some fortifications to the south, in parts, to prevent attacks from the rear, as well as a military road behind the wall running parallel to the fortifications.

As well as the mile castles, there were major forts immediately behind the wall, like the one at Housesteads, which has been preserved (especially the bathhouses), and which has a delightful museum about the Roman occupation. A number of outlying forts, north of the wall, were intended to subdue and control the Picts, locally.

The grip of the Romans on this area waxed and waned over the centuries, and the commanders had to rely on British auxiliaries to man Hadrian’s Wall. These auxiliary units would have included both infantry and cavalry, and would have been recruited, in the main, from local Romanized British tribes. When Rome finally withdrew the last of the Legions in 410AD, the Wall ceased to have a great deal of meaning – although some historians suggest that local ‘levies’ still manned some of the forts for a time.

This view, from just north of the wall and looking west, shows the natural, basaltic outcropping, which the Legions used as the basis for their structure, wherever possible (the western half did not have easily available stone). The remains – close to the fort of Vercovicum (Housesteads) – are still impressive, despite the ravages of time, and the depredations of local farmers through the centuries, and 18th century road-builders, who regarded the wall as a great source of quarried stone. Hadrian’s Wall is, of course, a UNESCO World Heritage Site – it attained that status in 1987, and is managed by English Heritage.

Avebury Manor – history and yet more history March 14, 2009

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Avebury Manor
Avebury Manor

The National Trust owns the delightful Avebury Manor in Wiltshire; however, as with some of their other properties, it is leased by tenants, so only some of the property may be viewed and since access is limited, ‘timed tickets’ are issued.

The Manor has ecclesiastical roots, and parts of the building date from the 12th century Benedictine Priory, which was nearby.  King Henry III had granted the manor to William de Tankerville, the Chamberlain of Normandy, who swiftly granted it to the abbey of St-Georges-de-Boscherville in Normandy, a religious house which was founded under the Rule of Saint Benedict. The main building was built in the 16th century by William Durch, the current south front of the house being dated to 1602. A succession of owners, some with dubious business practices (Sir William Sharington, Master of the Mint at Bristol, was stripped of the manor for ‘clipping’ the coinage) lead to Colonel and Mrs L.C.D. Jenner in 1907, who laid out some beautiful Edwardian gardens, including superb examples of topiary. A photograph dated 1922 shows most of the rendered walls covered in ivy. This rendering clothes strong structural ‘bones’ of limestone and sarsen stone, which have stood the test of time. Similarly, some of the original, leaded glazing has survived almost untouched.
With a house of this age, it is almost certain that there will be a fund of ghost stories. It is said that there is a ‘white lady’, the ghost of a young Civil War widow, who follows visitors around the house and gardens. However, the most ‘notable’ apparition is that of Sir John Stavell, who died immediately after the English Civil War when the manor was stripped from him by Oliver Cromwell – Sir John’s ghost is said to be immediately preceded by a very strong smell of roses!
Avebury Manor has not been without recent controversy, however. In the late 1980s, the house was bought by a Mr Ken King, a businessman who had – let us say – some rather unusual business habits. Many of the locals were up in arms, when it was announced that Mr King would be converting the property into an Elizabethan theme park, with waxworks and instruments of torture; he expected this to bring in 100,000 visitors per year. How this would have been accomplished in a tiny village with just one, narrow, through road (complete with three 90 degree bends) and almost zero parking is beyond me. The effect on the UN-designated World Heritage Site does not bear thinking about.
Fortunately, for almost all concerned, the plan foundered, Mr King went broke (again), and the National Trust acquired the property. The rest, as they say, is yet more history………..

A Derbyshire ‘traitor’? February 4, 2009

Posted by shortfinals in British Isles, Derbyshire, England, London, Museums, New England, United States.
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Slater Mill, Pawtucket, Rhode Island
Slater Mill, Pawtucket, Rhode Island

When is a ‘traitor’ not a ‘traitor’? When he’s ‘The Father of the American Industrial Revolution’?

Samuel Slater, the son of a Derbyshire yeoman farmer, was apprenticed to Jedediah Strutt, who along with his business partner, Sir Richard Arkwright, had established the first successful textile mills, at Cromford, Milford and Belper in the Derwent Valley in Derbyshire.
Slater was a brilliant pupil, and learnt the whole method of carding and spinning of yarn, using the machinery designed by Arkwright, and the factory system, by heart.
Shortly after, in 1789, he took ship from London for New York. This was against the law, as England had made it illegal for textile machinery to be exported,or trained textile workers to leave the country. He posed as a farm worker, and was able to seem believable because of his family roots, but he had sewn his intenture papers, proving he had successfully completed his apprenticeship, inside his clothes. Samuel didn’t make it in New York, but a canny Quaker merchant in Rhode Island, one Moses Brown, brought him to New England, and funded the establishment of the first mill. Slater constructed machinery from memory, and by 1790, the mill was spinning cotton. Water power from the Blackstone River was added by 1791, and the mill was soon carding and spinning cotton in quantity.
Later, Slater struck out on his own, and established the mill you see here, Slater Mill, where he instituted the factory system, using children as young as four to help in the mill! He died a wealthy man, owning 13 mills, and having being acknowledged as ‘The Father of the American Industrial Revolution’ by President Andrew Jackson.
The Slater Mill has now been turned into an impressive museum, complete with costumed guides, and the surrounding area has been designated the Blackstone River National Heritage Corridor by the United States government. Strangely, the Derwent River has gone one better, with UNSECO, in 2001, declaring a stretch of the river, to the north of the city of Derby, the Derwent Mills World Heritage Site.
One other, eerie, co-incidence – both the Blackstone and the Derwent are exactly 50 miles long.

Who IS this man? January 21, 2009

Posted by shortfinals in Castles, England, London, Museums, World Heritage Site.
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Beefeater

Beefeater

Who is this man? Well, you might know him as a ‘Beefeater’ (from their rations of beef in the 15th century), but his actual title is a ‘Yeoman Warder of Her Majesty’s Palace and Fortress the Tower of London and Member of the Sovereign’s Bodyguard of the Yeoman Guard Extraordinary ’. A big title for a prestigeous job. Their origins stretch back as far as the reign of Edward IV (1461-83).Yeoman Warders have guarded the Crown Jewels and the Tower itself, as well as looking after (theoretically, in modern times) any prisoners of the Crowd lodged there.

Their ‘undress uniform’ is seen here; it has many Tudor touches (if you ignore the two-way radio), including the full-cut frock coat, which, when coupled with modern trousers looks exceedingly odd. On ceremonial ocassions, they wear a glorious red and gold dress uniform – and yes, red tights, a white ruff and buckled shoes!

There are only 35 Yeoman Warders, as well as a Chief Warder. Moira Cameron, a former Warrent Officer in the Army has become the very first female Warder, and will perform the ‘tour guide’ portion of her job, as well as the more ceremonial part of a Yeoman Warden’s duties. All Warders must be senior NCOs of the Army, the Royal Air Force, the Royal Marines and more recently, the Royal Navy, with at least 22 years of impeccable service. Oh yes, and what about the ravens, you say? Well, they have their wings partially clipped so they will not be able to fly from the Tower (legend says it will fall if they leave), and THEY actually are fed beef!

The Big Pit – Pwll Mawr January 15, 2009

Posted by shortfinals in Museums, Wales, World Heritage Site.
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Headstocks and pithead buildings at the Big Pit, Blaeavon

Headstocks and pithead buildings at the Big Pit, Blaeavon

One of my greatest joys is to visit a museum – ANY museum – not just for the objects being conserved and displayed, but for the way in which they are presented to visitors and the educational aims being fulfilled. In other words, when I visit a museum, I automatically see it through the eyes of a long-time museum professional, and this can colour my reactions to the site/collection.

The Big Pit (Pwll Mawr) at Blaeafon (‘the head of the river’) in Gwent, South Wales is the National Coal Museum of Wales (Amgueddfa Lafaol Cymru).  The headstocks which you can see, along with the winding engine in the winding house, and the colliery buildings are a stark reminder of the price paid for coal – in the blood of miners. This pit closed in 1980, and is now a ‘living museum’ in that you can actually descend 300ft into the mine to view the former workings, in the company of an experinced miner/guide. It is an experience which is nothing short of breath-taking; I was incredibly moved, not just as a museum professional, but as the son of a coal miner, and as someone who lost a relative in one of the last colliery disasters in the UK. The whole area has been declared a World Heritage Site by the UN, and the designation is well-merited.

If you do visit, remember to have a meal in the modern cafeteria – try the cawl, it’s delicious! (Cawl is a Welsh stew…usually with mutton or lamb, although in this case, Pwll Mawr’s cawl is made with beef)

Avebury World Heritage Site December 14, 2008

Posted by shortfinals in British Isles, England, Prehistory, Wiltshire, World Heritage Site.
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Stone circle, Avebury, Wiltshire

Stone circle, Avebury, Wiltshire

Work on the major earthworks at Avebury (about 12 miles south of Swindon, Wiltshire) began in about 3,400 BC. The standing sarsen stones were added later (98 of them in a complex series of circles and avenues). They constitute one of the most significant Neolithic henge/earthwork sites in Europe, and are much more accessible than Stonehenge to the south, in that visitors may walk among them – a very moving experience.
Close by are Silbury Hill – the largest manmade earthwork in Europe, and West Kennet Longbarrow. All in all, a must for those interested in prehistory, and the village of Avebury with its historic Manor and museum rounds things out nicely