jump to navigation

Hadrian’s Wall – on the edge of Empire March 19, 2009

Posted by shortfinals in British Isles, England, Great Britain, Museums, Scotland, World Heritage Site.
Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
add a comment
Hadrian's Wall - looking west

Hadrian's Wall - looking west

Hadrian’s Wall has been many things in its long life – linear fortress, border marker, provincial boundary, casual quarry, battleground, ancient monument, tourist destination and the setting for many tales (Rosemary Sutcliffe’s ‘Eagle of the Ninth’, and Rudyard Kipling’s ‘On the Wall’ spring to mind). It runs from the Roman fort of Segedunum (Wallsend) to Bowness on the Solway Firth, and is just over 73 miles long.

Brought into being by decree of the Emperor Hadrian, during his tour of Britain in 120AD, the main purpose of the wall was to prevent the northern areas of the Roman province of Britannia being over-run by Pictish tribes from the north, and also spasmodic sea-borne attacks by Danish and Norse raiding parties, who went ‘a-viking’ when the spring brought better sea conditions for their longboats. The best known of the three wall-like fortifications built across the province of Britannia, Hadrian’s Wall had (for the most part) a rubble core and faced stone blocks to a height of some 12 feet, in places. The more northern Antonine Wall, (built c. 142AD) at the shortest distance between the east and west coasts, was a constructed of mostly earth and timber. It is a little known fact that each Roman Legion carried its own engineers, and these were quite capable of undertaking major building works, such as Hadrian’s Wall, using local stone; three Legions undertook to build the wall, and traces of their handiwork can be identified to this day. When completed, the wall stretched from the North Sea (Oceanus Germanicus) to the Irish Sea.  It was fortified each Roman mile, with so-called ‘mile castles’, strong watchtowers, which could hold a detachment of fighting men, and siege engines, including ballistas, capable of firing heavy dart-like spears at any attacking force. There was a deep ditch immediately in front of the Wall, which was strewn with thorn bushes and jagged rocks to make any approach from the northern side difficult.  There were also some fortifications to the south, in parts, to prevent attacks from the rear, as well as a military road behind the wall running parallel to the fortifications.

As well as the mile castles, there were major forts immediately behind the wall, like the one at Housesteads, which has been preserved (especially the bathhouses), and which has a delightful museum about the Roman occupation. A number of outlying forts, north of the wall, were intended to subdue and control the Picts, locally.

The grip of the Romans on this area waxed and waned over the centuries, and the commanders had to rely on British auxiliaries to man Hadrian’s Wall. These auxiliary units would have included both infantry and cavalry, and would have been recruited, in the main, from local Romanized British tribes. When Rome finally withdrew the last of the Legions in 410AD, the Wall ceased to have a great deal of meaning – although some historians suggest that local ‘levies’ still manned some of the forts for a time.

This view, from just north of the wall and looking west, shows the natural, basaltic outcropping, which the Legions used as the basis for their structure, wherever possible (the western half did not have easily available stone). The remains – close to the fort of Vercovicum (Housesteads) – are still impressive, despite the ravages of time, and the depredations of local farmers through the centuries, and 18th century road-builders, who regarded the wall as a great source of quarried stone. Hadrian’s Wall is, of course, a UNESCO World Heritage Site – it attained that status in 1987, and is managed by English Heritage.

Beautiful Blue John jewellery February 7, 2009

Posted by shortfinals in British Isles, Derbyshire, England, Great Britain, Museums, Peak District.
Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
add a comment
Blue John jewellry

Blue John jewellery

This is what Castleton is all about…not the brooding Peveril Castle, the staggering Winnat’s Pass, the hulking Mam Tor, but the caverns where the world’s only supply of a certain form of flourspar, called Blue John, is found. This striking gemstone was prized by the Romans, who mined this area for lead – one of their most treasured metals, used in their aqueducts, roofing amd much more – and found this sparkling semi-precious gemstone. Two vases of Blue John were supposedly found in the ruins of Pompeii.

Unfortunately, the Victorians mined it using dynamite, and huge spoil heaps were caused, underground. The largest Blue John pieces, including vases and tables, date from this period; indeed, what gemstone is being utilised by the modern jewellery workshops in town is, in the main, extracted from the Victorian spoil heaps.

There are two private museums featuring the mineral in Castelton, as well as other examples in collections around the country -  it is interesting to note that Blue John pieces can command staggering prices. A pair of George III white marble and Blue John candelabra by Matthew Boulton, and dating from 1771 (similar to a pair in the Royal collection at Frogmore House) were sold by Christies in New York for $385,000. It is known that other pieces are held by the House of Windsor.

Here you can see a typical display case inside one of the stores on Cross Street, Castleton, Derbyshire. Although there are some malachite pieces, the vast majority of jewellery features Blue John stones, with its delightful random patterns of purple, royal blue, white, violet and yellow bands.  It is customary amongst many Derbyshire families to give Blue John to the bride, matron-of-honour and bridesmaids at a wedding.

Be warned gentlemen; don’t take your lady into one of these shops without being prepared to suffer ‘damage’ to your credit card! As night follows day, she will be entranced.

Caerleon amphitheatre January 10, 2009

Posted by shortfinals in Wales.
Tags: , , , , , , , , , ,
add a comment
Amphitheatre at Caerleon

Amphitheatre at Caerleon

The remains of the amphitheatre at Caerleon, on the River Usk, close to Newport, Wales, are spectacular. They should be, given that the Roman fortress here, Isca Silurum, was the headquarters of the Legio II Augusta for more than 200 years, from 75 – 300AD. There were many municipal buildings, and the Legion’s engineers built extensive bath houses (which have been excavated, and now form a spectacular museum).  Later, Caerleon was associated with King Arthur, and given as one of the possible sites for Camelot. Obviously, with the withdrawal of the Legions from Britain in 410AD, this place fell into a slow decline; it wasn’t until the establishment of a stone-built castle in the 13th century that it began to grow again.

Now, when you stand in the amphitheatre, you can almost feel the sand under your feet, and hear the roar of the beasts, matched only by the roar of the crowd. This site positively reeks of history. If you are ever in the County of Gwent, in South Wales, do NOT miss this; it is well worth the trip.

Temple to Mithras, Carrawburgh January 8, 2009

Posted by shortfinals in England, Great Britain, Literature, Rudyard Kipling.
Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
add a comment
The mithraeum, Carrawburgh

The mithraeum, Carrawburgh

 

Temples to the god Mithras, or mithrae, were common amongst the Roman Legions. Wherever they went, they were sure to erect a temple to this Persian deity. Sacred rites, always conducted in near darkness, involved the initiation and ‘raising’ of members of this cult from one of the seven grades to the next. Central to this worship was the sacrifice of a bull, and special chambers were constructed to allow for this event.

Here we see part of a tiny mithraem just south of Hadrian’s wall near what was the Roman fort of Brocolitia (now Carrawburgh). The columns you can see are concrete replicas – the originals having been removed for display elsewhere.

I always think of Kipling when I see a temple or votive carving dedicated to this god, beloved of the Legions. Several of the short stories in ‘Puck of Pook’s Hill’ and ‘Rewards and Faries’ are centred on The Wall and involve characters who are devotees of Mithras. In some ways there are echoes of Mithranism in the various Masonic rites, with their initiation and ‘raising’ and secret methods of identifying fellow-initiates. It is no surprise, therefore, to learn that Rudyard Kipling, who wove Mithranism into some of his stories, also wrote others with a Masonic theme, or that he was, himself, a Mason.

I know it’s not a castle but…..(#2) December 9, 2008

Posted by shortfinals in Castles.
Tags: , , , ,
add a comment

london-wall

Here we have part of the largest surviving section of the Roman wall, which the Legions built around their colony of Londinium around 200AD, following the revolt by Queen Boudica of the Iceni. It is preserved by English Heritage, and shows the typical Roman tile bonding courses near the base. All in all, an impressive piece of engineering by the Romans.

Alright, I know it’s not a castle, but… December 7, 2008

Posted by shortfinals in Castles, England.
Tags: , , , , , , , , ,
add a comment
Base of tower, York

Base of tower, York

Eboracum, Jorvik, York; many names, one glorious city. The Romans, Vikings and Normans all valued its strategic location at the confluence of the Fosse and Ouse Rivers, and the place is like a giant layer cake of history. It has over 2 .5 miles of city walls (which you are encouraged to walk), and fortifications galore. I was taken with the remains of this tower close by the River Ouse. The arrow slits in the curved tower walls have rounded ends; these are called oillets, and it means that they are from the 13th century at the earliest. Sorry about the rushed shot, I was being rained on at the time!