Hadrian’s Wall – on the edge of Empire March 19, 2009
Posted by shortfinals in British Isles, England, Great Britain, Museums, Scotland, World Heritage Site.Tags: 'a-viking', 'Eagle of the Ninth', 'mile castle', 'On the Wall', ancient monument, Antonine Wall, ballista, basaltic, bathhouse, battleground, border marker, Bowness, Britannia, British, British tribes, cavalry, Danish, decree, deep ditch, Emperor, Emperor Hadrian, engineers, English Heritage, faced stone blocks, farmers, fort, fortifications, forts, Hadrian's Wall, Housesteads, infantry, Irish Sea, Legions, levies, linear fortress, longboat, military road, museum, Museums, Norse, North Sea, Oceanus Germanicus, Pictish, Picts, provincial boundary, quarried stone, quarry, Roman, Roman Legion, Roman mile, Roman occupation, Romanized, Romans, Rome, Rosemary Sutcliffe, rubble core, Rudyard Kipling, Segedunum, siege engines, Solway Firth, tourist, tourist destination, UNESCO, Vercovicum, Wallsend, watchtower, World Heritage Site
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Hadrian's Wall - looking west
Hadrian’s Wall has been many things in its long life – linear fortress, border marker, provincial boundary, casual quarry, battleground, ancient monument, tourist destination and the setting for many tales (Rosemary Sutcliffe’s ‘Eagle of the Ninth’, and Rudyard Kipling’s ‘On the Wall’ spring to mind). It runs from the Roman fort of Segedunum (Wallsend) to Bowness on the Solway Firth, and is just over 73 miles long.
Brought into being by decree of the Emperor Hadrian, during his tour of Britain in 120AD, the main purpose of the wall was to prevent the northern areas of the Roman province of Britannia being over-run by Pictish tribes from the north, and also spasmodic sea-borne attacks by Danish and Norse raiding parties, who went ‘a-viking’ when the spring brought better sea conditions for their longboats. The best known of the three wall-like fortifications built across the province of Britannia, Hadrian’s Wall had (for the most part) a rubble core and faced stone blocks to a height of some 12 feet, in places. The more northern Antonine Wall, (built c. 142AD) at the shortest distance between the east and west coasts, was a constructed of mostly earth and timber. It is a little known fact that each Roman Legion carried its own engineers, and these were quite capable of undertaking major building works, such as Hadrian’s Wall, using local stone; three Legions undertook to build the wall, and traces of their handiwork can be identified to this day. When completed, the wall stretched from the North Sea (Oceanus Germanicus) to the Irish Sea. It was fortified each Roman mile, with so-called ‘mile castles’, strong watchtowers, which could hold a detachment of fighting men, and siege engines, including ballistas, capable of firing heavy dart-like spears at any attacking force. There was a deep ditch immediately in front of the Wall, which was strewn with thorn bushes and jagged rocks to make any approach from the northern side difficult. There were also some fortifications to the south, in parts, to prevent attacks from the rear, as well as a military road behind the wall running parallel to the fortifications.
As well as the mile castles, there were major forts immediately behind the wall, like the one at Housesteads, which has been preserved (especially the bathhouses), and which has a delightful museum about the Roman occupation. A number of outlying forts, north of the wall, were intended to subdue and control the Picts, locally.
The grip of the Romans on this area waxed and waned over the centuries, and the commanders had to rely on British auxiliaries to man Hadrian’s Wall. These auxiliary units would have included both infantry and cavalry, and would have been recruited, in the main, from local Romanized British tribes. When Rome finally withdrew the last of the Legions in 410AD, the Wall ceased to have a great deal of meaning – although some historians suggest that local ‘levies’ still manned some of the forts for a time.
This view, from just north of the wall and looking west, shows the natural, basaltic outcropping, which the Legions used as the basis for their structure, wherever possible (the western half did not have easily available stone). The remains – close to the fort of Vercovicum (Housesteads) – are still impressive, despite the ravages of time, and the depredations of local farmers through the centuries, and 18th century road-builders, who regarded the wall as a great source of quarried stone. Hadrian’s Wall is, of course, a UNESCO World Heritage Site – it attained that status in 1987, and is managed by English Heritage.
Inside the Co-op at Beamish January 31, 2009
Posted by shortfinals in England, Museums.Tags: 1913, aluminosulphosilicate, Annfield Plain, ash, Beamish, bee sting, bicarbonate of soda, black lead, boiler, Brasso, bristle brushes, cast iron, Co-op, Co-operative Wholesale Society, Derbyshire, Durham, England, First World War, Golden Valley, Hudson's soap, kitchen grate, Museums, North of England Open Air Museum, Northumberland, optical whitener, Reckitt's Blue, wooden clothes pegs
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- The Co-op store, Beamish
Beamish, the North of England Open Air Museum, was first opened to the public in 1972. The site is a reconstruction of a typical village in the Northumberland/Durham area. There are other periods represented, but the main street is firmly set in 1913. The former Co-operative Store from Annfield Plain has been careful re-assembled, stocked and even staffed with period re-enactors.
Butterley Station, Midland Railway Centre January 26, 2009
Posted by shortfinals in Derbyshire, England, Museums, railways.Tags: 'Black Five', 'old pence', Ambergate, Belle Vue Station, Belleview Zoological and Pleasure Gardens, Butterley Reservoir, Butterley Station, cast iron, Codnor, Derby, Derbyshire, Eastwood, embankment, Erewash Valley Line, fire bucket, Golden Valley, Langley Mill, LMS, London, London Midland Scottish Railway, Manchester, Midland Railway, Midland Railway charter, Midland Railway Trust, milk churns, Museums, Narrow-guage railway, Pye Bridge, railway enthusiasts, Ripley, Sheffield, steam locomotives, Sun Inn, Swanwick, The Sun Inn, Thomas the Tank Engine, Whitwell
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Butterley Station, Midland Railway Centre
I have always been interested in railways, especially steam locomotives. I remember as a boy taking a 4d (four ‘old pence’) bus ride the 4 miles to Langley Mill Station, on the Erewash Valley Line close to the Nottinghamshire border, in order to watch the main line trains thunder through on their way to Sheffield from London.
Here is a shot of Butterley Railway Station (on the old Pye Bridge to Ambergate line which closed in 1968), in the Derbyshire town of Ripley. When I was about 8, I was taken on a ’special’ from here to Manchester Belle Vue station, drawn behind an LMS ‘Black Five’ locomotive, northward across the embankment which splits Butterley Reservoir, and returned late at night having had a wonderful time at the old Belle Vue Zoological and Pleasure Gardens. The last ‘bus had LONG gone, and that meant a long walk home to Codnor!
The Midland Railway Trust has transformed this derelict site, and despite the fact that it looks almost exactly as I remember it, the original building is no longer there. An identical station building was found at Whitwell in north Derbyshire and erected on the site of the old one. Note the period wood and cast iron benches, the milk churns and even the period fire buckets! The Midland Railway (one of the main constituent companies of the London Midland and Scottish Railway) was formed at the Sun Inn in Eastwood, and had its main works at nearby Derby, so it was natural that the Trust would have chosen this site, along with the 3.5 mile length of track, as its headquarters. Now trains run from here to the new station and museum at Swanwick and beyond, and there is a fine narrow-guage extension to the hamlet of Golden Valley (where my mother was born!).
When I was here, the station was decked out for a visit from ‘Thomas the Tank Engine’, and the place was heaving with ’small railway enthusiasts’ .
Who IS this man? January 21, 2009
Posted by shortfinals in Castles, England, London, Museums, World Heritage Site.Tags: Army, beef, Beefeater, Crown Jewels, Edward IV, England, frock coat, London, Moira Cameron, Museums, ravens, River Thames, Royal Air Force, Royal Marines, Royal Navy, ruff, Senior NCO, Tower of London, World Heritage Site, Yeoman Warders
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Beefeater
Who is this man? Well, you might know him as a ‘Beefeater’ (from their rations of beef in the 15th century), but his actual title is a ‘Yeoman Warder of Her Majesty’s Palace and Fortress the Tower of London and Member of the Sovereign’s Bodyguard of the Yeoman Guard Extraordinary ’. A big title for a prestigeous job. Their origins stretch back as far as the reign of Edward IV (1461-83).Yeoman Warders have guarded the Crown Jewels and the Tower itself, as well as looking after (theoretically, in modern times) any prisoners of the Crowd lodged there.
Their ‘undress uniform’ is seen here; it has many Tudor touches (if you ignore the two-way radio), including the full-cut frock coat, which, when coupled with modern trousers looks exceedingly odd. On ceremonial ocassions, they wear a glorious red and gold dress uniform – and yes, red tights, a white ruff and buckled shoes!
There are only 35 Yeoman Warders, as well as a Chief Warder. Moira Cameron, a former Warrent Officer in the Army has become the very first female Warder, and will perform the ‘tour guide’ portion of her job, as well as the more ceremonial part of a Yeoman Warden’s duties. All Warders must be senior NCOs of the Army, the Royal Air Force, the Royal Marines and more recently, the Royal Navy, with at least 22 years of impeccable service. Oh yes, and what about the ravens, you say? Well, they have their wings partially clipped so they will not be able to fly from the Tower (legend says it will fall if they leave), and THEY actually are fed beef!
The prefab – Homes for Heroes January 17, 2009
Posted by shortfinals in Second World War, Wales.Tags: Birmingham, Cardiff, Hall Green, Ministry of Works, Museums, National History Museum of Wales, prefab, prefabricated house, Preservation Order, Second World War, St Fagan's, Wales
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Prefab home - National History Musuem of Wales, St Fagan's
During the Second World War, the UK lost tens of thousands of homes, either destroyed or made unihabitable due to damage; some where even lost to ‘friendly fire’ when they became part of army firing ranges or were demolished to make way for vital airfields. The result was a Ministry of Works programme to build prefabricated homes (or ‘prefabs’ as they became known). The cost (in 1945) ranged between 663 – 1,161 Pounds Sterling , and there were several types, including a steel-tubed framed house, a timber with asbestos cladding model, and an aluminium design. Here you can see a fine example of the last one. This house used to stand in Llandinam Crescent, Cardiff, but was removed, and re-erected at St Fagan’s, as part of the National History Museum of Wales collection. Prefabs were supposed to only last around 15 years, but a number survived into the 1960s and 70s. I can remember visiting a school friend who lived in one, and they were quite comfortable inside. When local government tenants were eventually asked to move out into newer housing, many resisted. There are a few still standing (in Hall Green, Birmingham, for example) mainly due to the fact that Preservation Orders have been enforced; these are now recognized as being nationally significant buildings.
The Big Pit – Pwll Mawr January 15, 2009
Posted by shortfinals in Museums, Wales, World Heritage Site.Tags: beef, Blaeafon, cawl, coal, colliery, Gwent, headstocks, lamb, miner, Museums, mutton, National Coal Museum of Wales, pit, pithead, Pwll Mawr, South Wales, Wales, Welsh, World Heritage Site
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Headstocks and pithead buildings at the Big Pit, Blaeavon
One of my greatest joys is to visit a museum – ANY museum – not just for the objects being conserved and displayed, but for the way in which they are presented to visitors and the educational aims being fulfilled. In other words, when I visit a museum, I automatically see it through the eyes of a long-time museum professional, and this can colour my reactions to the site/collection.
The Big Pit (Pwll Mawr) at Blaeafon (‘the head of the river’) in Gwent, South Wales is the National Coal Museum of Wales (Amgueddfa Lafaol Cymru). The headstocks which you can see, along with the winding engine in the winding house, and the colliery buildings are a stark reminder of the price paid for coal – in the blood of miners. This pit closed in 1980, and is now a ‘living museum’ in that you can actually descend 300ft into the mine to view the former workings, in the company of an experinced miner/guide. It is an experience which is nothing short of breath-taking; I was incredibly moved, not just as a museum professional, but as the son of a coal miner, and as someone who lost a relative in one of the last colliery disasters in the UK. The whole area has been declared a World Heritage Site by the UN, and the designation is well-merited.
If you do visit, remember to have a meal in the modern cafeteria – try the cawl, it’s delicious! (Cawl is a Welsh stew…usually with mutton or lamb, although in this case, Pwll Mawr’s cawl is made with beef)
Welsh dresser – 1830s house, St Fagan’s January 10, 2009
Posted by shortfinals in British Isles, Museums, Wales.Tags: child's chair, China, Museums, National History Museum of Wales, pewter, pewter mug, row houses, St Fagan's, stone tiles, stoneware, transfer-printed china, treenware, Wales, Welsh dresser
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- Welsh dresser, 1830s house, National History Museum of Wales, St Fagan’s
I think that one of the greatest joys in life is a well-designed museum. Whatever the subject matter, you can come away after a visit, uplifted, entertained and educated. As a museum professional, I rejoice every time I go to St Fagan’s. Not just because it means I am only 15 miles away from a branch of my family, but because I regard the National History Museum of Wales as being an object lesson in good museum design.



