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Hadrian’s Wall – on the edge of Empire March 19, 2009

Posted by shortfinals in British Isles, England, Great Britain, Museums, Scotland, World Heritage Site.
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Hadrian's Wall - looking west

Hadrian's Wall - looking west

Hadrian’s Wall has been many things in its long life – linear fortress, border marker, provincial boundary, casual quarry, battleground, ancient monument, tourist destination and the setting for many tales (Rosemary Sutcliffe’s ‘Eagle of the Ninth’, and Rudyard Kipling’s ‘On the Wall’ spring to mind). It runs from the Roman fort of Segedunum (Wallsend) to Bowness on the Solway Firth, and is just over 73 miles long.

Brought into being by decree of the Emperor Hadrian, during his tour of Britain in 120AD, the main purpose of the wall was to prevent the northern areas of the Roman province of Britannia being over-run by Pictish tribes from the north, and also spasmodic sea-borne attacks by Danish and Norse raiding parties, who went ‘a-viking’ when the spring brought better sea conditions for their longboats. The best known of the three wall-like fortifications built across the province of Britannia, Hadrian’s Wall had (for the most part) a rubble core and faced stone blocks to a height of some 12 feet, in places. The more northern Antonine Wall, (built c. 142AD) at the shortest distance between the east and west coasts, was a constructed of mostly earth and timber. It is a little known fact that each Roman Legion carried its own engineers, and these were quite capable of undertaking major building works, such as Hadrian’s Wall, using local stone; three Legions undertook to build the wall, and traces of their handiwork can be identified to this day. When completed, the wall stretched from the North Sea (Oceanus Germanicus) to the Irish Sea.  It was fortified each Roman mile, with so-called ‘mile castles’, strong watchtowers, which could hold a detachment of fighting men, and siege engines, including ballistas, capable of firing heavy dart-like spears at any attacking force. There was a deep ditch immediately in front of the Wall, which was strewn with thorn bushes and jagged rocks to make any approach from the northern side difficult.  There were also some fortifications to the south, in parts, to prevent attacks from the rear, as well as a military road behind the wall running parallel to the fortifications.

As well as the mile castles, there were major forts immediately behind the wall, like the one at Housesteads, which has been preserved (especially the bathhouses), and which has a delightful museum about the Roman occupation. A number of outlying forts, north of the wall, were intended to subdue and control the Picts, locally.

The grip of the Romans on this area waxed and waned over the centuries, and the commanders had to rely on British auxiliaries to man Hadrian’s Wall. These auxiliary units would have included both infantry and cavalry, and would have been recruited, in the main, from local Romanized British tribes. When Rome finally withdrew the last of the Legions in 410AD, the Wall ceased to have a great deal of meaning – although some historians suggest that local ‘levies’ still manned some of the forts for a time.

This view, from just north of the wall and looking west, shows the natural, basaltic outcropping, which the Legions used as the basis for their structure, wherever possible (the western half did not have easily available stone). The remains – close to the fort of Vercovicum (Housesteads) – are still impressive, despite the ravages of time, and the depredations of local farmers through the centuries, and 18th century road-builders, who regarded the wall as a great source of quarried stone. Hadrian’s Wall is, of course, a UNESCO World Heritage Site – it attained that status in 1987, and is managed by English Heritage.

Setting a pit prop…… February 1, 2009

Posted by shortfinals in British Isles, Derbyshire, Scotland, Wales.
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Setting a pit prop, Pwll Mawr

Setting a pit prop, Pwll Mawr

The scene is deep underground in a Welsh coal mine, Pwll Mawr, Gwent. A miner is at the coalface, ’setting’ a wooden pit prop to hold up the roof, whilst he works to extract the coal. This is a temporary solution to hold back the millions of tons of rock above him. You can the the modern steel frames (with the spaces between them filled by wooden beams) further down the ‘roadway’.

Wood has been a vital part of mining since the Middle Ages. Indeed, a laboratory at Nottingham University used dendrochronology to establish that oak timbers found in a pit at Coleorton, Leicestershire dated from 1450.

During the First World War, the German Navy threatened the importation by sea from Sweden and Russia of the huge quantities of softwood pit props needed to keep the Scottish coalfields of Lanarkshire and Stirlingshire in production. Britain did not grow enough suitable wood of its own to keep the coal supply flowing. Indeed, in the 1960s UK forestry interests were still planting the rapid-growing Sitka spruce for use as pit-props, and large quantities of pit-props and pit-bars were being imported from France!

A wooden prop needs to be replaced after two or three years, as the rate of failure increases markedly after this time. The death-knell for the large scale use of the pip prop was the introduction of steel prop and roof arches from the 1920s, onwards. The modern ‘mechanised’ pit, with it’s self-advancing roof supports (as installed at Ormonde Colliery, Loscoe, Derbyshire, before it’s unfortunate closure due to geological problems) was the future.

Scottish Blackface Sheep January 26, 2009

Posted by shortfinals in British Isles, Derbyshire, England, Scotland.
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Scottish Blackface Ewe and Lamb

Scottish Blackface Ewe and Lamb

When you are walking in the Peak District of Derbyshire, you often come across neat little tracks, cutting through the heather, and are grateful for the ‘easing of the way’. Well, here is who you thank for that kind act of trail-blazing. The Scottish Blackface Sheep. There are other breeds of sheep in Derbyshire (including the native Derbyshire Gritstone), but the ubiquitous Scottish Blackface dominates the high peaks, and with good reason. The breed is incredibly hardy, and can survive the harsh Derbyshire winters. Their fleece is exceptionally hard-wearing and the wool finds its way into carpets, and clothing where wear-resistance is at a premium. The lambs are low in fat (as a carcass) and provide really lean meat. All in all, it is quite understandable that the Scottish Blackface is the most common sheep in the British Isles, having spread far and wide from its original home in the Scottish Borders.

By the way, don’t think of getting too close to that lamb; the Scottish Blackface ewe is very protective, and will fight predators with those horns.

Norman Keep, Peveril Castle January 16, 2009

Posted by shortfinals in Castles, Derbyshire, England, Peak District, Scotland.
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Norman Keep, Peveril Castle

Norman Keep, Peveril Castle

This castle overlooking the little town of Castleton, is now owned by English Heritage, having been for centuries part of either the Crown Estates or the Duchy of Lancaster. Mostly in ruins, what is left gives the impression of the projection of raw power. Here you can see the remains of the Norman keep which replaced an original wooden structure in the early 12th century; you can see that the keep has lost most of its exterior gritstone cladding.

If you make the steep climb from the entrance building at the base of the hill, you are rewarded with some of the most impressive views in the Peak District. To enter the keep of Peveril Castle, you climb a spiral staircase on the southern side; the original floors have long since gone, but you can consult a series of data boards which will tell you the story of life in the keep, as experienced by Peveril of the Peak.

The castle did have its moment of glory, however. King Henry II of England received his fellow monarch, Malcolm I of Scotland, here in 1157, to receive the Scots pledge of fealty.

Here is another family dog! January 14, 2009

Posted by shortfinals in England, Scotland, dogs.
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Dylan wants to play!

Dylan wants to play!

Dylan is one of my favourite family dogs. He is a ‘dark phase’ Cairn Terrier, and is a most handsome lad. Cairns were used to eradicate vermin on farms in the Western Isles of Scotland, and as such they are strong and quick, with a weather-proof coat. Dylan is an intelligent dog (as all Cairn’s are) and enjoys playing, and I have great fun with him. Fortunately, the breed lives well into their teens.

Scotland – crossing the border January 12, 2009

Posted by shortfinals in Scotland.
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Crossing the border!

Crossing the border!

 

I am very aware of the Scottish part of my heritage. After all, my name means ‘man from the headland’ in Scots Gaelic! It was very tempting, therefore, to make a short trip north from Ellingham Hall (the venue for Paul and Marianne’s wedding), through Berwick-on-Tweed, and into Scotland.

Berwick is a strange place, having changed hands between Scotland and England no less than 13 times! The Elizabethan era fortifications are quite something. Here we are at the border; the Scottish side – on the road to Edinburgh – is marked by a neat stone, flagpoles and a large sign, located in a layby. By contrast, the English side has a rather scruffy tea-bar, parked in the corresponding layby, with one small English flag, and a nondescript sign saying ‘England’.